Traveling with Twain

In Search of America's Identity

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Being gay in America’s Hometown

What’s it like to be gay in Hannibal, Missouri, a town of 17,606 that bills itself as America’s hometown? Mary Lou Montgomery, editor of the Hannibal Courier-Post, says sexual orientation is not discussed: “It’s pretty quiet—not … Read more >>

An evening of Twain-inspired bluegrass

On my first night on the trip, I met Mark Twain’s spirit at a midnight record release party. Loren and Alyssa, already two days into the project, picked me up at the St. Louis airport. After … Read more >>

Mark Twain birthplace museum acknowledges family’s slave holding past

Smiles and laughter come easily to Connie Ritter, 61, the second of 10 children born and raised in Monroe City, Missouri. But her face turns stern when she recalls the playground beside the Mark Twain birthplace … Read more >>

Cahokia Mounds

When Dave Smith, 59, was a boy, he used to sled down the backside of 10-story-tall Monks Mound. The same Monks Mound, from which 1,000 years ago a Native American chief ruled a six-square-mile community of … Read more >>

A Twain hat becomes a trip essential

Food cooler for the van, check. Extra batteries for cameras, check. Twain hat for head, check. Well, okay, a Twain hat isn’t normally regarded as essential for a three-month trip, but I’m a hat guy. My … Read more >>