Traveling with Twain

In Search of America's Identity

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Mark Twain birthplace museum acknowledges family’s slave holding past

Smiles and laughter come easily to Connie Ritter, 61, the second of 10 children born and raised in Monroe City, Missouri. But her face turns stern when she recalls the playground beside the Mark Twain birthplace … Read more >>

Cahokia Mounds

When Dave Smith, 59, was a boy, he used to sled down the backside of 10-story-tall Monks Mound. The same Monks Mound, from which 1,000 years ago a Native American chief ruled a six-square-mile community of … Read more >>

How (not) to pack

Fitting three months of stuff into two suitcases is proving to be more difficult than I anticipated.

A Twain hat becomes a trip essential

Food cooler for the van, check. Extra batteries for cameras, check. Twain hat for head, check. Well, okay, a Twain hat isn’t normally regarded as essential for a three-month trip, but I’m a hat guy. My … Read more >>

How it all began: From motorcycle fantasy to road-trip reality

Here’s how this trip began:  Mark Twain and I—he with narrowed blue-green eyes, exploding shock of red hair and white flannel suit, I with black, smoke-lens sunglasses, black helmet and black leather jacket—decided to go, as … Read more >>